How to Address the Signs of Photoaging

There’s a reason every skincare professional’s first skincare recommendation is SPF: unprotected sun exposure is responsible for up to 80% of visible signs of aging and a key contributing factor to skin cancer, which means that SPF might be the best preventative aging solution that we have.

Unfortunately for many of us, a great deal of damage has already been done. Blame it on your tanning bed years or just the ignorance of youth: photodamage that you experience in your early years can have very real impacts on your skin health for the rest of your life, including increased rates of cellular senescence and chronic inflammation. But what can we do about the damage that’s already been done? Let’s take a closer look at how photoaging works and the promising new therapies available to help reverse its effects.

UV Damage is the #1 Extrinsic Aging Factor

There are two major types of aging: intrinsic aging is largely determined by your genetic profile while extrinsic aging occurs as a result of environmental exposures and daily lifestyle habits. While there are many extrinsic aging factors– air pollution and cigarette smoke just to name a couple–UV radiation is by far the most common and potent aging factor that we face in our daily lives.

Like intrinsic aging, photoaging is cumulative and adds up over a lifetime. While intrinsic aging requires the passage of time, photoaging can occur very quickly depending on the degree of sun exposure and the amount of UV-blocking pigment naturally present in your skin. This means that if you’re very fair-skinned and rarely wear sunscreen, your skin will actually age much faster than it ordinarily would without UV damage. This increases the biological age of your skin and reduces your skin span–the amount of time your skin is healthy.

UV Damage Induces Cellular Senescence & Accelerates Aging

On the cellular level, UV exposure causes cells to prematurely enter senescence, a state in which a cell has reached the end of its lifecycle and should be cleared away, but instead lingers. A central hallmark of skin aging, cellular senescence is the accumulation of aged, zombie cells that induce aging in neighboring cells. The faster that our cells fall into senescence, the more difficult it is for the body to efficiently clear them away – precipitating a cascade of aging that can result in impaired skin regeneration, chronic inflammation, and even skin cancer. As skin is exposed to more UV radiation, this damage accelerates even further, leading to premature aging.

What does UV-induced Senescence Look Like?

Photoaging is associated with a number of visible symptoms, including dryness, deep wrinkles, skin laxity, slow wound healing, a higher risk of skin cancer, and leathery skin caused by thickening of the epidermis.¹

Many of these symptoms occur because UV-induced senescent cells alter proteins, like collagen and elastin, which keep the skin plump and firm. Without proper function of these proteins, the skin begins to show common signs of aging like skin sagging, wrinkles, and laxity. This effect on collagen and elastin may occur because UV-induced senescent cells show high expression of MMPs, a family of enzymes that break down structural proteins in the skin.¹ Research also shows that UV-induced senescence leads to an increase in melanogenesis, the production of melanin pigment within the skin. This can cause age-related hyperpigmentation or sun spots.²

Addressing the Visible Signs of Photoaging

Professional Treatments
When it comes to professional treatments, Chemical Peels, IPL Photofacials, Microdermabrasion, Hydrofacial Treatments with LED Light Therapy all work quickly, and dramatically to reverse the visible signs of sun damage by reducing discoloration and hyperpigmentation, improving tone and texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and restoring radiance and moisture.

Excluding IPL Photofacials, these treatments remove the uppermost layers of the skin to reveal newer, undamaged skin, encourage new skin cell growth and stimulate collagen production. While Microdermabrasion is a physical exfoliator – removes skin by manually rubbing it off using tiny crystals or a diamond-tipped wand, Chemical Peels use chemicals such as acetic acid (used in TCA Peels and derived from vinegar), salicylic acid (hydroxy acid), lactic acid (alpha hydroxy acid), and resorcinol (used in Jessner Peels – the alpha hydroxy acid treats the surface of the skin addressing pigmentation issues, the beta hydroxy acid penetrates into pores of the epidermis to soften fine lines and wrinkles and reduce the oil and sebum that contribute to acne breakouts).

Hydrofacial Treatments combine physical and chemical exfoliation and utilize a medical-grade hydrodermabrasion device to carry out a three-part regimen of – cleansing + exfoliation, extraction + hydration, infusion + protection. Hydrofacial relies on an abrasive tip with alpha hydroxy acid to dislodge dead and damaged skin cells, while salicylic acid and vacuum suction extracts sebum and impurities deeply cleansing the skin After the skin is cleansed, extracted and resurfaced, the treatment concludes with serum infusion therapy. This entails the liberal application of a powerful serum rich in antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid, designed to hydrate, brighten, plump and clear complexion, while helping to reversing the visible signs of aging. When combined with LED Light Therapy, this treatment stimulates mitochondrial and Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) production; promotes blood circulation and tissue oxygenation, leading to a reduction in inflammation, increased lymphatic flow and enhanced cellular function, while stimulating the creation and extension of anti-aging enzymes ultimately resulting in skin rejuvenation that includes: a reduction in wrinkles, toning and diminishing age spots, improve clarity, tightening and texturizing.    

IPL Photofacials are powered by intense pulsed light delivered at precise frequencies through several layers of the skin. The light produced by the IPL device generates heat that when absorbed by the targeted tissue corrects imperfections in the skin. Thus, IPL Photofacials work on a cellular level to treat the visible signs of premature aging including: fine lines and wrinkles, rough texture, hyperpigmentation (sun damage, brown spots, birthmarks, freckles and Melasma), visible veins, skin laxity and scars.

At Home Treatments
With at home treatments, one of the easiest and most effective ways to reverse damage and see great results in the texture and tone of your skin is Retinol. Exposure to sunlight causes our skin to lose vitamin A and it is critical that we replenish it. Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and is added to topical skincare products to reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen, promote cellular renewal, brighten, enhance elasticity, even out skin tone and normalize pigmentation. It even promotes DNA repair, inducing damaged cells to function normally again. Adding Retinol now will help to preserve your skin today, while reversing any existing damage.

When it comes to improving the appearance of discoloration and hyperpigmentation, Environ Vita-Botanical Mela-Fade Serum System is your solution. Environ Intense C-Boost Mela-Even is a clarifying cream that contains the most stable form of vitamin C, a multifunctional ingredient that prevents lipid peroxidation (a visible sign of aging) while reducing the appearance of cell damage. It is formulated to help improve the appearance of sun damage, uneven skin tone, general hyperpigmentation, as well as fine lines and capillaries. Anti-inflammatory properties help to soothe and calm facial redness and inflammation while vitamin C and E help to protect against further UV damage.